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Lhotse 2006  

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12.5. 2006
Official report on the death of Pavel Kalny from the The Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation of Nepal

As per the report of Liaison Officer, the following one member of "Norwegian Lhotse Expedition 2006" team died by falling down at the altitude of 8300 m., West Face of Mt. Lhotse on 10th May 2006.

1. Mr. Pavel Kalny (39 yrs.), Climber, Doudleby 28, 370 07 Ceske Budejovice, Czech Republic.

The above mentioned 12 members expedition team was permitted to climb 8516 meter high Mt. Lhotse from normal route for the period of 75 days from 8th April, 2006 under the leadership of Mr. Sven Gangdal of Norway. The handling agency of the expedition team is Chchhogaru Treks and Expedition, Kathmandu, Nepal.

The Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation expresses its deep sorrow on his sad demise. Ganga Prasad Luitel (Under Secretary)
|   |    Nepal

02.5. 2006
We are in base camp after two aclimatization trips.
First time, we went up ( 2 hours after the terrible accident in Khumbu icefall), slept in Camp 1 and move the gear to Camp 2 where we spend the second night, then returned to base camp.
Second time we went up after 3 rest days, slept in Camp 2 and established Camp 3 where we spent 2nts. Weather was windy and we returned to base camp for move rest.
We are now second day in base camp, enjoying company folks from Poland and Norway.
After two more days, we are planning to return on the mountain and try for summit this time. Both of us feel great and strong, no problem whatsoever with aclimatization.
|   Pavel and Martin  |    Everest/Lhotse BC,   02.5. 2006

24.4. 2006
They have been supplying camp 1 and camp 2 and are now back at base camp. More to follow...
|   Martin and Pavel  |    Everest/Lhotse BC,   24.4. 2006

17.4. 2006
We made it to Base Camp in good time and also good weather with only rain overnight in Namche Bazar. Compared to Tibet, this is warm spot and space for everyone with reasonable amount of privacy.
Tomorrow, we are heading up to Camp 1 and probably also Camp 2.
|   Martin and Pavel  |    Everest/Lhotse BC,   17.4. 2006

3.4. 2006
We are flying from Vienna to Kathmandu on Thursday, April 6.
On April 8, we plan to fly to Lukla, then walk to Everest / Lhotse Base Camp. Within the next 6 weeks, we would like to reach the summit of Lhotse. For Martin, it is 7th expedition to 8 000m peak. Five times he made it to the top of the hill. Solo or in small teams, never with artificial oxygen or support Sherpa porters above base camp.

For Pavel Kalný, this is going to be the first Himalayan encounter. But last year, he succeeded on Mt. Logan in Yukon ( highest hill in Canada and second one in North America) when he made the traverse of the mountain with another fellow Czech climber ( Martin Minařík made the very first traverse of this mountain - alone and without support in 1998).
Small, two man team with no support and artificial oxygen hope to make it up to Lhotse, the fourth highest mountain of the world sometimes in mid May via standard route - via Khumbu icefall.

Zdenek Hruby and Martin Minařík are slowly putting together a team for winter ascent of Makalu ( January 2007). Lhotse will be the final test before Makalu, the mountain which yet has no winter ascent and recently claimed the life of one of the best alpinist, Jean-Christophe Lafaille.
|   Martin and Pavel  |   3.4. 2006

Czech Lhotse 2006 expedition

Basic info about the czech Lhotse 2006 Expedition

  • Everything starts on 6th April 2006 by departure from the Vienna airport, heading for Kathmandu. The flight over Lukla will follow and from there the hike tour with yaks to the base camp which is located under Mt. Everest.

  • Brief plan: After sufficient acclimatization in the base camp we are going to climb icefall Khumbu to 6.000m, where the first camp should be built, and then in 6.400m the second camp under SW face of Mt. Everest. This will probably serve as our first acclimatization, after which we will climb down to the base camp and have a rest. The second sub-expedition should go ever the first two camps to 7300m where the third camp should be built, and after which a descent should again follow. For the third time we will climb the icefall Khumbu in order to build the fourth camp at 8.100m and to reach the summit. There are two various ways of progress: We will either go over the South Saddle and then through traverzem which seems to be rather difficult, or traverzem od enevské ostruhy. There is a chance to reach the summit (8.516m) from the fourth camp. We calculate on the fact that we will climb overnight. The following day it should be possible not only to reach the summit but also to descent to the third camp, which is highly important because it is impossible to renew strength in 8.000m. There should be a combination of rock and ice in the Western face of Lhotse; the rocky sections above 8.000m reach here and there the third grade of difficulty.

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